Why the Lining Is Tenugui: A Showa Noragi and the Philosophy of Using What You Have
The lining of this noragi is tenugui fabric. Tenugui — the thin, plain-woven cotton cloth used for hand towels, headbands, and wrapping — is not a lining material in any conventional sense. It is too thin, too loosely woven, too associated with other uses. But in the context of a home-sewn noragi made during the early to mid-Showa period, tenugui as lining is not a compromise; it is a solution. The maker had tenugui. The noragi needed a lining. The tenugui became the lining. This is the logic of making garments from what is available rather than from what is specified — the logic of a time and a place where fabric was not wasted, where every piece of cloth had a use, where the inside of a garment was as much a record of resourcefulness as the outside was a record of craft.
This noragi jacket was made during the early to mid-Showa period. The exterior is indigo stripe cotton — the standard fabric of Showa-era workwear, the indigo dyed into the thread before weaving, the stripe running the full length of the garment. The collar is solid indigo cotton, giving the overall piece a refined impression — a deliberate choice, the maker selecting a different fabric for the collar to create a visual distinction between the body of the garment and its edge. There is no miyatsuguchi — the traditional side-body opening is absent, which gives the garment a cleaner silhouette. The length is 87cm, the chest 61cm, the shoulder 64cm, the sleeve 33cm, the cuff 22cm. Fraying at sleeve ends and underarms; some tears, wear, and stains. Washed twice in-house.
The Tenugui Lining: A Record of Resourcefulness
Tenugui is one of the most versatile objects in the Japanese material culture. A single piece of thin cotton cloth, approximately 35cm wide and 90cm long, it functions as a hand towel, a headband, a wrapping cloth, a cleaning cloth, a gift wrap, a decorative panel. Its versatility comes from its simplicity: plain weave, thin cotton, no hem — the edges left raw, which allows the cloth to be torn cleanly to any size. In a household where fabric was valued and nothing was wasted, tenugui was always available, always useful, always ready to become something else.
As a lining for a noragi, tenugui provides a smooth inner surface against the skin — thin enough not to add bulk, soft enough to be comfortable, available in the household without requiring a trip to a fabric merchant. The combination of different fabrics is one of the distinctive features of noragi: the exterior chosen for durability and weather resistance, the lining chosen for comfort and availability. The tenugui lining of this noragi is not a sign of poverty or compromise; it is a sign of intelligence — of a maker who understood what each fabric was for and used each fabric accordingly.
The Noragi Without Miyatsuguchi: A Cleaner Silhouette
The miyatsuguchi — the traditional side-body opening under the arm — is present on many noragi, providing ventilation during physical work and ease of movement for the arms. Its absence on this noragi is a deliberate choice that changes the silhouette: without the opening, the side seam is continuous from underarm to hem, giving the garment a cleaner, more closed line. The result is a noragi that reads more like a jacket than a work shirt — a garment that can be worn in contexts where the miyatsuguchi's openness would be unnecessary or unwanted.
The shoulder width of 64cm is notably wide — wider than the chest measurement of 61cm — which gives the garment a dropped-shoulder silhouette characteristic of traditional Japanese garment construction. The sleeve length of 33cm is short, keeping the cuffs clear of the hands during work. The cuff width of 22cm is relatively open, allowing the sleeve to be pushed up easily. These proportions are the result of a construction logic that prioritizes function and ease of movement over the fitted silhouette of Western tailoring.
Size and Condition
Era: Early to mid-Showa. Material: Cotton (indigo stripe exterior, tenugui lining, solid indigo collar). No miyatsuguchi. Back length approx. 87cm / 34.3in. Chest approx. 61cm / 24.0in. Shoulder width approx. 64cm / 25.2in. Sleeve length approx. 33cm / 13.0in. Sleeve width approx. 27cm / 10.6in. Cuff width approx. 22cm / 8.7in. Fraying at sleeve ends and underarms. Some tears, wear, and stains. Washed twice in-house. Vintage scent may remain. One of a kind.